Zeyniler is a quiet village overlooking a gorgeous valley on the slopes of Uludağ mountain, yet surprisingly close to downtown Bursa. The village is only 6 km from the Grand Mosque (Ulu Cami) or 3 km from the cable car (teleferik) station which means that the taxi fare to the village is very reasonable. Some people enjoy the walk up the hill too, however be aware that it is steep and strenuous (500 meter elevation change from the Grand Mosque). The simplest walk is to follow the only road to the village. There is also a trail through the woods that runs parallel to the road for most of the hike. However, if you don’t have a trail guide or map, the best walking option is to follow the road.

The name “Zeyniler” is connected to a Muslim sect called the Zeynüddin Hafi (literally ‘the Secret Garland of Religion’) but shortened to “Zeyni” from which “Zeyniler” is the plural form. The word “zeyn” is Arabic and means “garland” or “ornament.” In other words, Zeyniler Village is the literally “village of those who are of the Secret Garland of Religion sect.” Apparently, in the 16th century, this sect had property, a worship hall and the tomb of a holy man located near the location of the village mosque¹ but the sect became inactive in the 17th century. In the early 20th century, the area was known as “Beşevler” (5 houses) after the five brothers who settled there in the late 1800s. These brothers came from the Ahiska (Meskheti) region in the Caucus Mountains.² After the 1950s, the younger generation was drawn to Bursa for work and education. During the 1970s, the area was only being used during planting and harvesting during the spring, summer and fall.

By 2012, the area gained “village” status and was officially called “Zeyniler Köyü” (Zeyniler Village). This was the same year the village got tied into the city electric grid and its road continued to be improved.³ The village has a higher elevation than the city and the temperature is always several degrees cooler on these mountain slopes. Dress appropriately. At the top end of the village is a parachute ramp and supposedly there are some companies that will help the willing to jump but I haven’t seen it happen very much. Perhaps that is a good topic for a different article.

Among Turks, Zeyniler Village is most famous for its connection to an early 20th century author, Reşat Nuri Güntekin and his classic book from 1922 called Çalıkuşu (The Wren).⁴ While the author, Güntekin, was a teacher at the Boys’ High School in Bursa he enjoyed spending time at Zeyniler Village where he got his inspiration for the main character in his book, Çalıkuşu, from a young girl, Feride, who lived in the village.

Right at the center of the village is the Zeyniler Konak (Village Hall/Inn) that is run by the “Wren Women of Zeyniler Agriculture Development Cooperative.” The cooperative began at the end of 2015 and was officially recognized in early 2016. Their goal is to bring together the skills and talents of their members in order to elevate the social and economic position of women. They offer tea, Turkish coffee, salep, traditional village breakfast and a variety of other traditional dishes. They also sell home made goods like pickles, noodles, jellies and other things. Many of the women I met working in the Konak were descendants of the five Ahiska brothers who founded the “5 houses” 120+ years ago. One woman told me that Feride, from the Çalıkuşu book, was her aunt. Only one of the original “5 houses” still stands today. It is known as the “Güntekin” house named after the famous author and it located across from the Konak.

There are 3 things to do in the village itself– 4 if you include talking with the local people.

1. Take in the view – stop at the entrance of the village and enjoy the scenery from the viewpoint platform. The view to the north, east and west is of the city, horizon and distant mountains. The view to the south looks up Kaplikaya Valley towards the Uludağ National Park.
2. Drink tea at the Konak – it is worth taking some time and drinking tea at the Konak. Sip your tea (or coffee) and enjoy the serene environment and cool mountain air.
3. Eat at the Konak – a full meal can be enjoyed there at the Konak as well. It will give you more time to enjoy the scenery. They are open 10am – 10pm Tuesday-Sunday. They are closed if the road becomes impassible and they try to post weather closures on their Facebook page. They are also closed Mondays but I’ve been there many times on a Monday and they always have tea available.
4. Talk with locals – this will probably only work if you know Turkish or have someone who can translate for you, but I always enjoy talking to local residents who can tell me more about the area, its history and local customs.

Zeyniler Village can be destination or a starting point to other adventures. For those who want to do an easy hike that can be done with children, stay tuned for an upcoming article about walking along the Water Way (suyolu). For those who want to do a more challenging hike up into the mountains, keep an eye out for another upcoming article about hiking to Kadıyayla or Çobankaya from Zeyniler Village.

Sources: 1 https://sehirmedya.com/kultur-sanat/zeyniler-haziresi-ve-zeyniler-koyu-h73898.html